08/31/11 11:25am
08/31/2011 11:25 AM

When wine grapes were first planted on Long Island in the 1970s and ’80s, most growers chose to plant the most important grape varieties of France, including chardonnay and pinot noir. The chardonnay was universally successful as a variety that consistently produced high quality fruit on plants that were easy to tend, but pinot noir proved to be far more challenging, and many acres of this grape were ripped out, replanted to merlot, cabernet franc or more chardonnay.

Experience here proved pinot noir’s reputation as the “heartbreak grape.” Even in Burgundy, where the medieval monks who cultivated the Cote d’Or selected, bred and celebrated pinot noir as their finest red wine grape, the variety is difficult to ripen and even more difficult to make into great wine.

The viticultural problem with pinot is that berries in its clusters are tightly packed, so that if one single berry is damaged by insects, birds or fungus, the entire cluster will quickly rot. It also ripens sooner than most varieties, which should be an advantage, except that it’s the first to attract marauding pests like finches, robins, raccoons and bees. Given a choice between ripe pinot noir and slightly unripe anything else, you can guess where the pests will go. This applies to people, too; pinot noir fruit is exquisitely delicious, and a vineyard planted along a road where pilgrims stroll will be soon denuded, as happened along the route to Santiago de Compostela in medieval times.

When pinot noir succeeds as wine, there is nothing to compare with its aromatic allure, its finesse, subtlety, complexity, silken mouthfeel and nuanced finish. Unfortunately, these qualities do not come easily or automatically as the fruit, even undamaged fruit, is transformed by fermentation into wine. In many ways, it is highly unstable, and the techniques that might be used to stabilize one desirable quality may harm another desirable one.

The deep blue-black color of pinot noir fruit is a cruel ruse because the pigments (anthocyanins) that give it this gorgeous hue exist in equilibrium with a colorless version of the same pigment. Pinot noir is different from most other black or red vitis vinifera wine grapes in that it lacks amylated (stabilized) anthocyanins. I’ve seen a tank of pinot wine that was pitch black when it was first crushed but transformed into the equivalent color of cranberry juice after six months’ aging.

To add insult to injury, pinot’s tannins (astringent particles derived from skins and seeds) have shorter molecular chains than most wine grapes, and are bitter. Many winemakers cold soak pinot noir fruit before fermenting it, in order to extract softer tannins. But in reality, heat and alcohol are needed to maximize color, and the extra time in cold soak also gives the fruit extra time in contact with its seeds, which are the bitterest part.

Most pinot noir is encouraged to complete a secondary fermentation, transforming its sharp malic acid into buttery lactic acid. This effectively softens the wine, but also raises the pH, which further damages its hue. Barrel aging smooths out the edges and adds the flavors and aromas of oak to the wine; it also steals some of the delicate fruit aromas, and accentuates harsh tannins, thus requiring more time in the bottle to soften again.

Despite these challenges, or maybe because of them, the temptation to make great pinot noir has obsessed many winemakers, myself included. After trying for 27 years, with a few years of triumph and many of settling for a blanc de noir or Beaujolais style, I am still obsessed with how to make what every pinot fancier wants — that “iron fist in a velvet glove.”

On Long Island, a few wineries (including Borghese, Laurel Lake, Jamesport and Osprey’s Dominion) persist in producing pinot. The Old Field, Lenz and Sparkling Pointe grow it for rosé and sparkling wines.

In Cutchogue, Russell McCall has 11 acres of mature pinot noir, planted 15 years ago. He believes that the cluster stems must be brown before he harvests so he waits, anxiously, while birds and botrytis threaten his crop. He sorts berries for soundness and ferments in small containers, with punch-down of skins also done by hand. Following the methods used by Burgundian monks in the 13th century has, for him, proved to be the best way to create wines that are subtle, meriting meditation.

What better way to explore one of the world’s most compelling wines?

Ms. Hargrave was a founder of the Long Island wine industry in 1973. She is currently a freelance writer and consultant.

08/31/11 11:22am

This Italianate Victorian home on two private acres has been featured in print media and on TV and offers a 50-foot in-ground pool, 2,000-square-foot garage with loft, family room, four working fireplaces, eat-in kitchen, formal dining room, double-size living room with hand-painted fresco ceilings, four bedrooms, four baths, wine cellar, gym and gardens.

Location: Peconic
Price: Owners will entertain offers from $1.4 million
Broker: Beninati Associates, Southold, 631-765-5333

08/31/11 11:17am

Charles Bloss has enjoyed a very fulfilling lifetime with his wife, Pat, children and grandchildren, and most recently celebrated 50 years of service in Washington Engine Co. No. 2 of the Riverhead Fire Department. He attained the rank of captain, was a commissioner of Riverhead Fire District, and was longtime Riverhead Town Superintendent of Highways. If that isn’t a busy life, I don’t know what is. To help celebrate this milestone the Riverhead Firefighters Association and Washington Engine Co. No. 2 held a dinner — with family and friends present — at fire department headquarters. Charles received numerous plaques and proclamations from County Legislator Ed Romaine, the Riverhead Town Board, the Association of Fire Districts of the State of New York, the chief’s office of the RFD, the Riverhead Firefighters Association, the Board of Riverhead Fire Commissioners, and a host of others. He joined an elite group of men in the RFD who have attained the 50-year status.

Riverhead Free Library’s adult summer reading club “Riverhead Reads: Adventures Abroad” recently ended with library patron Linda Esposito winning a gift certificate from grand prize donor North Fork Trolley Co. Other businesses that generously contributed prizes included: Long Island Aquarium and Exhibition Center, Dark Horse Restaurant, Off Main Market and Kitchen, Riverhead Flower Shop, Starbucks Coffee Company and World Village Fair Trade Market.

Happy birthday wishes to Robin Hulse and Andre Aleksandrowicz on Sept. 1; Sharon Sparrow, Sept. 2; Janet Luce and Fran Dresher, Sept. 4; Kathy Paulos, Gilles Bouchard and Freddy Miles Jr., Sept. 5; Janet Walsh, Cheryl Luparella, Brendon Madonia (who turns 17) and Meredith Bouchard, Sept. 6; and Delaney Hughes, Sept. 7. Be sure to celebrate.

Happy 39th wedding anniversary wishes to Peggy and Paul Sparrow on Sept. 1; Michele and Tom Lynch (who celebrate their 29th), Sept. 4; and Mary and Phil Kenter, who celebrate 54 glorious years together, Sept. 7. Hope your day is extra special.

A reminder to my readers that there is an early deadline for the Sept. 8 issue as the office will be closed on Labor Day, Monday, Sept. 5. Any news you would like to share with the community for the Sept. 8 issue needs to get to me by 7 o’clock tonight, Sept. 1.

Enjoy your Labor Day weekend, the last weekend before school begins. Enjoy shopping for school clothes, last-minute barbecues or just plain relaxing at the beach or pool. Whatever you do, take a moment to enjoy yourself and family.

Be sure to watch out for the yellow school buses on the first day of school Tuesday, Sept. 6.

I hope everyone fared well during Tropical Storm Irene. Thanks to all the volunteer services for all their help in maintaining calmness, our school community for the use of the high school, and police and town workers, who also did a great job. Thanks also to the residents who heeded the warnings and made provisions early on to keep safe.

08/31/11 11:16am

Erin Grubb and Ricky Stevenson

Erin Grubb and Ricky Stevenson were married on June 25, 2010, in Las Vegas, Nev., and renewed their vows before family and friends on June 25, 2011, in Flanders.

Ricky, son of June and Richard Stevenson of Riverhead, served for five years in the U.S. Marine Corps. Erin, daughter of Jon and Julie Grubb of Lincoln, Neb., is a 2001 graduate of Norris High School in Nebraska and a 2006 graduate of the University of Nebraska – Lincoln.

The couple resides in Spring Hill, Tenn.

08/31/11 11:13am

Christopher Schultz and Heather Victoria

Judy and Pete Victoria of Mattituck have announced the engagement of their daughter, Heather, to Christopher Scholtz, son of Nancy Krakowka of South Jamesport and Don Scholtz of Laurel.

Heather is an accountant for Banducci, Katz and Ferraris in Sag Harbor. Christopher is proprietor of East End Irrigation Systems in Mattituck. Both are graduates of Mattituck High School.

A September 2012 wedding is planned.

08/31/11 10:45am

VERA CHINESE PHOTO | LIPA workers repair a wire on Main Road in Jamesport Tuesday afternoon. Many residents complained that sightings of LIPA vehicles were few and far between on the North Fork after Tropical Storm Irene left more than half the population without power.

About 20 percent of households and businesses in the Riverhead area, including parts of Southampton, were still without power Wednesday morning, down from 26 percent at noon Tuesday, according to Long Island Power Authority figures.

This comes three days after the worst of Tropical Storm Irene swept across Long Island Sunday morning.

Calverton still leads the way for power outages in Riverhead Town, with 44 percent of households and businesses having no power, and in Wading River, 40 percent of people were powerless as of 10:30 a.m., according to LIPA’s power outage map, which is continually updated.

The hamlets of Riverhead, Northville, Aquebogue, Jamesport and Riverside in Riverhead Town, and Flanders, Riverside and Northampton in neighboring Southampton were faring much better, according to the LIPA figures, though some residences have reported much of Jamesport is still disconnected from the power grid. LIPA figures for Jamesport as of noon reported 64 power outages out of 1,350 customers.

LIPA will host a press conference today at 11:30 a.m.

Check back here for updates.

08/31/11 9:43am

The Arts
2nd annual North Fork Chamber of Commerce Art Show, Saturday, Sept. 10. 11 a.m.- 5 p.m. in Mitchell Park, Greenport. Sponsored in part by Suffolk County National Bank. 734-8545.
Opening reception for ‘Remnants,’ photo essay by John Dispenza, Saturday, Sept. 10, 3 p.m. at Floyd Memorial Library, Greenport. On view through Oct. 30. 477-0660.
Call for artists, design competition for East End Arts’ Harvest Gospel Concert Series in November. Submit original artwork that reflects joy and soul of gospel music. Winning design will adorn 25th Anniversary Harvest Gospel Concerts’ program book, poster, and commemorative hand fan. Select submitted images showcased at Rejoice & Shout: Celebrating 25 Years of Harvest Gospel Concerts event on Saturday, Sept. 24, in Riverhead, soul food dinner party and screening of newly released gospel music documentary “Rejoice & Shout.” Drop off entries Tuesday-Saturday, 10 a.m.-4 p.m., at EEA gallery, 133 E. Main St., Riverhead, by Friday, Sept. 9. All submissions clearly labeled with artist’s name and contact information. 727-0900.
Friends of Riverhead Free Library’s 46th annual photography contest; application and contest rules at welcome desk. All entries must be brought to library’s art gallery Saturday, Sept. 24, 9:30 a.m.-3:30 p.m. Contest reception Friday, Oct. 7, 7:30 p.m. at library. 727-3228.
9/11 Memorial Sculpture Display, Friday, Sept. 9, 6-8 p.m. at Suffolk County Historical Society, Riverhead, presented in collaboration with Riverhead Free Library. 727-28814.
26th annual Beach Blast A Go-Go! Saturday Sept. 10, 3 p.m.-midnight at Shelter Island’s Wades Beach. Gene Casey & The Lone Sharks, Winston Irie, The Who Dat Loungers, The Realm, New Dawn, Human Error and Big Suga! Also burlesque Go Go dancing World Famous Teenie Wahinis. Barbecue available. Benefit for Shelter Island’s Gift of Life Foundation. Bring blankets, chairs and sweaters. Admission $10, collected at beach; free parking. For foul weather info call 749-0390 day of event. www.sibeachblast.com, 466-2768.
St. Isidore Church hosts Polish Night, Friday, Sept. 9, 6-11 p.m. at St. Isidore School auditorium, 515 Marcy Ave., Riverhead to benefit its food pantry. Music, dinner of various Polish foods, dancing, raffles, and live entertainment by the Kolbe Dancers of Riverhead. Tickets on sale after every Mass, Sept. 3-4. Tickets will not be sold after Sept. 7. Tables set up as requested. Tickets $26 or $50/couple. Call Diane at 727-2114.
Applebee’s in Riverhead hosts Flapjack Breakfast fundraiser, Sunday, Sept. 11, 8 a.m.-10 a.m. for Michael Hubbard, who is in Stony Brook hospital recovering from injuries he suffered in May to help with costs and anything Michael may need now and in future. Tickets $10, includes flapjacks, sausage, scrambled eggs and beverage. No tickets sold at door. Call his aunt Fran at 369-9076 for ticket.
Benefit Barbecue, Friday, Sept. 16, 6-9 p.m. at Founders Landing in Southold to help Chad and Jen Menard whose baby daughter Olivia has perioximal biogenisis disease, Zellewegers Syndrome. Tickets $30, free for children 10 and under. Karenann Volinski of Mattituck is accepting donation checks, made out to Chad and Jen Menard, at 805 Theresa Drive, Mattituck, NY 11952. Information/tickets, call Christina Smith at 734-8304, Karenann Volinski at 516-658-7247, Holly Cavalier at 553-5755 or Peggy Dickerson at 734-2619.
Call for local artists and craftspeople for Fine Art and Craft show, Friday-Saturday, Sept. 16-17 at Church of the Holy Trinity on Main Street in Greenport. $25 per 10’ x 10’ space. Call Laura Wilson at 724-953-3382 or email: [email protected]
Vendors wanted for Old Town Art and Crafts Guild’s Art and Crafts Show, Saturday, Sept. 17, 10 a.m.-5 p.m. 734-6382 or oldtownguild.com.
Vendors wanted for Southold Indian Museum’s annual Craft and Yard Sale, Saturday, Sept. 24, 9 a.m.-2 p.m. Space $25; call 765-5777. Rain date Sunday, Sept. 25.
Town of Riverhead Recreation Department’s Movies on the Beach, rescheduled for Saturday, Sept. 10: “Shark Tale” begins 7 p.m. followed by “Jaws 2,” at 9 p.m. at South Jamesport Beach in Jamesport. Open to all residents; shown on 14’x 26’ outdoor screen. Children under 18 should be accompanied by adult. Bring chairs or blankets. 727-5744. In the case of inclement weather call 727-5744, ext. 30 for updated information.
Food and Drink
North Fork Reform Synagogue’s 5th annual North Fork Foodie Tour, Sunday, Sept. 11, 10 a.m.-4 p.m., one-day self-guided tour includes talks and demonstrations at tour headquarters, as well as a peek at inner workings of the sustainable ways local farms, wineries, bakeries, and confectionery shops produce fresh, homegrown foods and delectables. Among tour’s key motivations is to get residents to appreciate the origins of their food and to support local food production. Maps and tickets day of tour at Peconic Land Trust Ag Center, 3005 Youngs Ave., Southold or order ticket online from synagogue’s website. Tickets $25, children under 12 free. northforkreformsynagogue.org or send check payable to NFRS, PO Box 1625, Southold, NY 11971. Local stores selling tickets: Barth’s Pharmacy in Riverhead and Mattituck, Gallery M in Greenport, Complement the Chef in Southold. Phone 722-5712 for information.
Cutchogue New Suffolk Historical Council’s Old Fashioned Lobster Dinner, Saturday, Sept. 17, 5-8 p.m. on Cutchogue Village Green. Tickets $50; none sold at gate, available at the Carriage House, Braun’s Fish Market or members of the Historical Council. Information: 734-7122.
Breakfast Buffet, Sunday, Sept. 11, 8:30 a.m.-noon at Knights of Columbus in Cutchogue. Adults, $8, children $4. 734-7338.
Seed Saving Workshop and Potluck Dinner, Wednesday, Sept. 14, 4-7 p.m. at Peconic Land Trust’s Ag Center at Charnews Farm, 3005 Youngs Avenue, Southold. Stephanie Gaylor of Invincible Summer Farms covers importance of seed saving, differences in classes of seeds like hybrids, heirlooms and land races, and historical context of well-loved varieties, plus brief introduction to seed saving techniques. Potluck dinner begins 6 p.m.; please bring dish to share for 6-8 people. Fee $5. Reservations requested, call 283.-3195 or email to [email protected] Rain or shine.
Home Canning…for all ages, Wednesday, Sept. 14, 7 p.m. at Mattituck-Laurel Library, Mattituck. Mark Vosburgh presents informative and interactive program for anyone interested in home canning. Free; register at Circulation Desk. 298-4134.
For Bargain Hunters
Vendors wanted for yard sale/flea market at American Legion Post 273 in Riverhead, Saturday, Sept. 17, 8:30 a.m.-3 p.m. Rain date Sept. 18. Space $20; call 727-6348.
Fall yard sale, Saturday, Sept. 10, 9 a.m.-3 p.m. at Baiting Hollow Congregational Church, Sound Avenue. Lots of vendors, baked food table, hot dogs and soft drinks available for purchase. 258-8881.
For Children
Mommy & Me programs at Long Island Science Center, September sessions feature “My Favorite Dinosaur Fun with Floating Your 5 Senses.” Call for schedule: 208-8000.
For History Buffs
Southold Historical Society opens fall exhibition ‘The Versatile Reverend–The Photographs of Loren A. Rowley,’ Saturday, Sept. 10, 1-4 p.m. featuring several dozen examples of photographs by Rowley, little known photographer who served as minister at East Marion Baptist Church while also working as professional photographer. southoldhistoricalsociety.org.
Volunteers needed for 3rd annual Historic Jamesport House Tour, Saturday, Sept. 24, 10 a.m.-4 p.m., featuring 12 houses from late 1700’s to early 1900’s, including sea captains’ homes, bayfront cottages, farmhouses, quaint bungalows and former school houses, none visited in previous tours. Volunteers get half-price ticket $20 and work 10 a.m.-1 p.m. or 1-4 p.m. Last year’s tour raised over $12,000 for Jamesport Meeting House Preservation Trust. Contact Cathie Flanagan at [email protected] or 722-2279.
In the Garden
Riverhead Garden Club hosts Small Standard Placement Flower Show, Tuesday, Sept. 13, 1-5 p.m. at home of Nancy and Walter Binger, 470 Main Road, Aquebogue. Show includes flower design, horticulture, stroll through gardens, light refreshments. Donation $5.
Lectures and Seminars
Sunday Lectures at Southold Indian Museum, Sept. 11, 2:30 p.m., “Hiram Bingham and the 100th Anniversary of the Discovery of Machu Picchu,” with Dr. George Monahan, professor of history at Suffolk County Community College, who recently returned from a research trip to South America. Minimum requested donation $5 adults and children 14 and over; includes access to museum exhibits and refreshments; Free for members. 765-5577.
Third Thursdays series at Brecknock Hall, One Brecknock Road, Greenport, Thursday, Sept. 15, 6:30 p.m. features “Remember, Honor and Hope” with Terry Falquero & Caroline Waloski. Free. Hosted by East End Arts. 727-0900.
The Natural World
The Biology and Ecology of North American Birds of Prey, Friday, Sept. 9, 7:30 p.m. at North Fork Audubon Society’s Red House Nature Center, 65275 Route 48, Greenport. Slide presentation by zoologist and falconer Peter Capainolo explores diversity and natural history of selected species of eagles, hawks, falcons vultures and owls of North America. Birds of prey defined, adaptations for survival discussed and their current taxonomic positions explored, as is history of unique relationship human beings have with these birds throughout history. For info call Diana 917-623-5373 or email [email protected]
Sports and Recreation
Volleyball Tournament, Saturday, Sept. 10, 10 a.m. at Jamesport Town Beach. Fee $20 per player, six players per team. to benefit Heart Health at Peconic Bay Medical Center in Riverhead. 548-6371,6217, 6219.
5K Walk for Breast Cancer Awareness, Sunday, Sept. 25, sponsored by Tanger Outlet Center in Riverhead. Opening ceremony 8:45 a.m., walk begins 9 a.m. Pre-register by Friday, Sept. 9: 208-8889, northforkbreasthealth.org.
14th Annual Riverhead Snapper Tournament, Saturday, Sept. 10, 11 a.m.-3 p.m. at 99 McDermott Ave., Riverhead, along Town Dock, hosted by Town of Riverhead to benefit the Riverhead Summer Scholarship Program. Adult and Junior divisions (less than 16 years). Chinese auction follows tournament with prizes donated by various local businesses and individuals. Information: adventuresinfishing.com, 727-5744 or email [email protected]
‘How’s Your Heart?’ dinner/theater, Friday, Sept. 9, dinner 6-7 p.m., play begins 7:30 p.m. at Unity Baptist Church, Mattituck. Adults $12, children 10 and under $6. Call for tickets: 871-5084, 283-0205.
Tours and Trips
Lighthouse Cruise, Saturday, Sept. 10, depart 9 a.m. from Greenport, return 9 p.m. Cruise along Gardiner’s Bay and Long Island Sound to see famous lighthouses of the North Fork, including Long Beach Bar “Bug” Light, Orient Point, Plum Island, Little Gull, Race Rock, Latimer Reef and North Dumpling. Lighthouse trips include maritime history and lighthouse stories by local expert. Cruise vessel stops next to each lighthouse for photo ops. Fee $95 per person, $60 for teens/children. Price includes box lunch and complimentary glass of L.I. wine or bottle of water. Registration/information: eastendseaport.org, email [email protected], 477-2100. Groups welcome.
The Written Word
Southold Mothers’ Club book club, Monday, Sept. 12, “A Secret Kept” by Tatiana de Rosnay, 7 p.m. Contact Mara at [email protected], 940-3609 for location information.
Book reading/signing, Sunday, Sept. 11, 3 p.m. at Floyd Memorial Library, Greenport. Ellen Williams “We’re In This Together,” 40 World War II memories of local people. 477-0660.

Ongoing Events are listed here as space permits.

The Arts
Sculpture Garden at Brecknock Hall, One Brecknock Road, Greenport. On view through November. 477-3800.
Exhibit of photographs by Howard Stevens at Riverhead Town Hall, 200 Howell Avenue, Riverhead. On view through Sept. 10. 727-3200.
Photography exhibit by Patrick Haggerty “Heads Up,” through October at Southold Free Library, Main Road. 765-2077.
East End Arts members Patricia Feiler and Bob Miller exhibit series of paintings depicting North Fork landscape at Rosalie Dimon Gallery at Jamesport Manor Inn, 370 Manor Lane in Jamesport. On view through Nov. 2. 727-0900.
Brain Games
Duplicate bridge with Kathy Fibkins, Tuesdays, noon at Mattituck-Laurel Library, Main Road, Mattituck. Open to all; 734-8096.
Bingo, Mondays and Thursdays, 6:30 p.m. at Moose Lodge, Riverside Drive, Riverhead. Gaming begins 7:30 p.m. 727-6667, 779-2694.
Mah-jongg, Mondays, 10 a.m.-noon, and Tuesdays, 11 a.m.-3 p.m., at Mattituck-Laurel Library, Main Road, Mattituck. 298-4134.
Food and Drink
Community supper, free soup kitchen for all in need, 5:30-6:30 p.m. Wednesdays at St. Agnes R.C. Church parish hall, Sixth Street, Greenport. 765-2981.
Free lunch, Almuerzo Gratis for ages 6-18, Monday-Friday, 11 a.m.-12:30 p.m. at The Salvation Army, 130 Osborne Avenue, Riverhead. 727-3338.
For Children
Playdates with the Southold Mothers’ Club: Wednesdays at Cutchogue/New Suffolk Library, Pre-school Playgroup (19 months-5 years), 9:30-11:00 a.m. [email protected] Wee little Ones Playgroup (birth-18 months), 11:00-noon, [email protected] Weekend Toddler Playdate, for times and locations contact [email protected]
Crafts for Kids at Southold Indian Museum, Sundays, 12:30-1:30 p.m., 1080 Main Bayview Road. Fee: $5 per child per craft; must be accompanied by adult. Registration appreciated but not required. 765-5577.
Health and Fitness
Free beginner’s Hatha Yoga classes, Sundays, 3-4:15 p.m. at Mary Smith Recreation Center, Greenport. Bring non-skid, body-length mat. 765-3005.
Sail the Seven Seas, new exhibit at East End Seaport Museum, Third Street at Ferry Dock, Greenport. Meticulously hand crafted ship models replicating famous seagoing vessels of the last four centuries. Open daily 11 a.m.-5 p.m., closed Tuesdays. Group tours available. 477-2100.
The Sciences
Every Saturday, dusk to midnight: Stargazing at Custer Institute and Observatory, 1115 Main Bayview Road, Southold. 765-2626. To arrange group visits, e-mail [email protected]
The Written Word
The Yellow Barn at Riverhead Free Library, 330 Court St. open for book purchases Mondays, 9 a.m.-2 p.m. 727-3228, ext. 0.