06/21/12 8:00pm
06/21/2012 8:00 PM

BARBARAELLEN KOCH PHOTO | Lobster Roll Northside owner Fred Terry and his stepdaughter and assistant manager Dana Bordsen discussing what colors the tasting room walls will be painted.

Fred Terry is ready to try something new.

The restaurateur, who runs the Lobster Roll Northside and the nearby Gingerbread Factory in Baiting Hollow, said his latest project, the upcoming North Fork Tasting Room, will be as much about tasting family recipes and baked goods as it is about sampling all that the North Fork’s wineries and breweries have to offer.

But most important, Mr. Terry said, the food and drink shop will be a “labor of love.”

“It’s something that I wanted to do since the inception of this [restaurant],” he said, “and that’s more culinary arts, more food. The tasting room is as much food tasting as it is beverage tasting, for me.”

The North Fork Tasting Room, located in the same shopping area as the Lobster Roll Northside, will use the existing restaurant’s kitchens to make a variety of Mr. Terry’s family recipes, from huckleberry pies and other baked goods to smoked meats and fish.

Mr. Terry said he hopes to roll out a brand for selling some of these family recipes, some of which date back hundreds of years to Mr. Terry’s ancestors, who were among the first settlers on the North Fork.

He also wants to run small “beer and wine education” classes in the tasting room to teach people about the differences among local wines while offering them “every Long Island wine.”

Mr. Terry said the tasting room will not sell wines by the bottle but will instead refer tourists to some of the smaller wineries.

“Customers will have the opportunity to taste some of the differences,” he said. “This will be particularly a conduit for wineries and future breweries that are off the beaten track, because we are on the beaten track.”

Mr. Terry, who had been “semi-retired” from the restaurant business, said he was pulled back in after the unexpected death in 2010 of his oldest son, Frederick Terry II, who had been general manager of Lobster Roll Northside.

“I’m reminded of the picture ‘Cat Ballou,’ where the gunslinger had to do push-ups to get back in shape to be a gunslinger,” he said. “That’s where I am now. I’m doing push-ups.”

Mr. Terry said his stepdaughter, Dana, and son Sean will manage the retail shop year-round and added that he’s looking forward to dusting off old recipes to mix and match with local drinks.

“It’s more play than work,” he said. “If I felt it was going to be a huge amount of work, I probably wouldn’t be doing it.”

The North Fork Tasting Room is expected to open by mid-July.

psquire@timesreview.com

12/05/11 12:37pm
12/05/2011 12:37 PM

COURTESY PHOTO

It will be business as usual at Lobster Roll Northside in Baiting Hollow.
Frederick Terry, the owner of Lobster Roll Northside as well as the shopping center anchored by the popular restaurant, decided not to sell the site to any bidders at an auction last month.
Several bidders requested that Mr. Terry continue to operate the restaurant as a tenant, an arrangement he found “unsatisfactory,” according to a press release issued by the Terry family.
Credited in the American Dictionary of Food and Drink as the inventor of the lobster salad roll, Mr. Terry will continue to run the restaurant, but is still seeking buyers willing to operate the eatery.
He also operates Gingerbread University, which runs gingerbread-decorating workshops, out of the property’s main barn. He’ll continue that and plans to open other shops on the site, including a small bakery, a fudge and candy factory and Lobster Roll/LUNCH, a gourmet seafood eatery.
Mr. Terry is a direct descendent of the original Southold Town settlers, according to the press release. Lobster Roll Northside lies partly on land from his ancestors’ original homestead.
“I guess we’re going to stick around awhile and continue in the food business,” Mr. Terry said in the release. “No sense breaking a 370-year-old family tradition.”

sbrix@timesreview.com