Tag: chef column

Steam-cleaned, so groundless you’d believe
Them exhaled from some passing cloud,
The Idahoes and Maines arrive
Same-sized, tied in their plastic shroud.

Their British kindred, unconfined,
Differ in breeding, taste, and size.
They come with stones you mustn’t mind.
You have to dredge their claypit eyes.

Their brows look wrinkled with unease
Like chilblain-sufferers in March.
No sanitized machines are these
For changing sunlight into starch —

Yet the new world’s impatient taint
Sticks to my bones. I can’t resist
Cursing my mucked-up sink. I want
Unreal meals risen from sheer mist.

“Dirty English Potatoes” from “Spud Songs” by X.J. Kennedy

Traditionally, the Eastern white potato has been the mainstay of Long Island potato production. It is an all-purpose potato with relatively high moisture and sugar content. At the other end of the scale is the russet potato, grown most successfully in Idaho. It is very high in starch content and is excellent for baking, frying and mashing. In between is the Yukon gold potato with its yellow flesh, light skin and medium starch content. It is increasingly becoming the premium potato on the North Fork and can be used in a wide variety of recipes. The Yukon gold is a cross between a North American white potato and a wild South American yellow-fleshed one. After years of research, it was released in 1980 by two Canadians, G.R. Johnston of Agriculture Canada and R.G. Rowberry of the University of Guelph. It seems to grow especially well on the North Fork and is a good source of vitamins, minerals and dietary fiber.

When purchasing these potatoes, don’t pick any that show splotches of green color; this is solanine, a bitter, mildly poisonous alkaloid that is produced by too much exposure to light. Store them in a cool, dry place away from the light and not near any onions, as onions release a gas that interacts with the potato and speeds up spoilage.

Here are some Yukon gold recipes:

Yukon Gold Hash
Cut 2 pounds of Yukon gold potatoes into half-inch dice, leaving skin on. Place them in boiling water and blanch for 10 minutes. Drain and set aside. Heat 2 tablespoons canola oil in large sauté pan and add the leaves of 1 bunch of fresh sage. When the sage is brown, remove and add to the hot oil 1 diced onion, 2 diced zucchini, 1 diced summer squash and 1 diced red pepper. Cook for 3 minutes and add the diced potatoes. Season with 1 tablespoon sea salt and 1 teaspoon black pepper. Add 1/2 cup chopped Italian parsley. When the potatoes are fully cooked and browning, remove and serve with 1 poached egg for each serving.
Serves 4-6.

Yukon Gold Potato Gnocchi with Pesto
Bring 3 pounds of potatoes in their skins to a boil and simmer until fully cooked, about 25 minutes. Remove, cool, peel and put through a potato ricer while they are still warm.
Mix 2 eggs and 1/4 cup heavy cream in a small bowl and season with 1 tablespoon sea salt and 1 teaspoon freshly ground nutmeg. Add this to the riced potatoes along with 2 cups flour. Stir ingredients together lightly with a wooden spoon and turn out onto a floured surface. Knead the mixture lightly with your hands to form a smooth dough. Cut into 6 equal pieces and form each into a round disk. Wrap in plastic wrap and refrigerate.
Meanwhile, place 2 cups coarsely chopped basil and 1 cup coarsely chopped Italian parsley in the bowl of a food processor. Add 1/2 cup chopped walnuts and 2 tablespoons minced garlic. Start the processor and drizzle in 1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil. When the mixture is smooth add 1/2 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese and 1/2 teaspoon sea salt. Remove and set aside.
Place a disk of gnocchi dough on a floured surface and roll out 3/4 inches thick. Cut into 4 strips and roll the strips with your hands to make cylinders about 1/2 inch thick. Cut these strips into 1-inch pieces and repeat until all are rolled and cut. Take each little piece and place it on the side of a wire whisk, pushing a dent in it with your finger. Let it roll off the whisk to make a round, grooved gnocchi with a indentation in it to hold the sauce. (This is often done on the back of a fork, but I think it works better with a whisk.) Place all of the finished gnocchi on a wax-paper-lined sheet pan.
If cooking them right away, bring 6 quarts of water to a boil and add the gnocchi carefully. When they rise to the surface they are done. Remove with a slotted spoon and place in serving dishes. Spoon the pesto over them and serve. (If not serving at once, freeze the gnocchi on the sheet pan, loosen them and place in a ziplock bag. They can be cooked equally well from the frozen state.)

Yukon Gold Roasted French Fries
Place 2 pounds of Yukon gold potatoes in their skins in boiling water and blanch until just tender, about 15 minutes. When cool enough to handle, cut them lengthwise into wedges. Whip 2 egg whites until frothy and add 1 tablespoon sea salt, 1 teaspoon onion powder and 1/2 teaspoon garlic powder. Toss the potato wedges with the egg white mixture in a large bowl until potatoes are coated. Spray a sheet pan with no-stick and spread the potatoes out in a single layer. Put into a 400-degree oven and cook for 10 minutes before turning the potatoes with a spatula. Cook another 10 minutes and serve.
These “french fries” will come out pretty crispy considering they were made with no fat or oil.
Serves 4.

Yukon Gold Pancakes
Peel and shred 6 medium-sized Yukon gold potatoes on the coarse side of a box grater. Squeeze out the moisture by wrapping them in a cloth cook’s towel and twisting the top until the juice comes out. Place the potatoes in a bowl. Whisk 1 egg, 2 tablespoons flour and 1/4 teaspoon baking powder together in a small bowl and add to the potatoes along with 1/2 cup minced shallots. Season with 1/2 teaspoon nutmeg, 1 teaspoon sea salt and 1/2 teaspoon pepper. Add this mixture to the potatoes and combine with a wooden spoon.
Heat a cast iron skillet and spray with no-stick. Add 2 tablespoons canola oil and when shimmering, place 1/4-cup batches of potato mixture in the hot oil. Press each down with a spatula and cook until golden, about 2 minutes. Turn and continue cooking for another 3 minutes. Remove the pancakes and place on a paper towel in a warm oven. Serve with applesauce.
Serves 4.

John Ross, a chef and author, has been an active part of the North Fork food and wine community for more than 35 years. Email: [email protected]

JOHN ROSS COURTESY PHOTO

“Poaching: A moist-heat cooking method that uses convection to transfer heat from a hot (160-180 F) liquid to the food submerged in it.”
Webster’s Dictionary of
Culinary Arts

On restaurant menus it is common to list ingredients and describe the cooking method. Thus we see “pan seared,” “roasted,” “grilled,” “braised,” “sautéed” and many more. It is important to remember that there are only two basic cooking methods: dry heat and moist heat. Heat is transferred to the food directly, as in placing a cutlet in a hot skillet (conduction), or indirectly by the currents caused by the movement of molecules in a liquid (convection).
Dry heat cooking methods include broiling, sautéeing, roasting and deep frying. They work best for tender cuts of meat, poultry and fish. A high quality steak is grilled at high temperature to make it palatable and flavorful, not to tenderize it. Moist heat methods include boiling, simmering and poaching. Braising is a combination method that requires browning at high temperature first and then adding liquid for long, slow cooking to tenderize. Simmering liquid such as water, stock or wine breaks down connective tissue in less tender cuts of meat, poultry and fish.
Poaching is a moist-heat cooking method that is unique in that small, tender portions of food are simmered gently below the boiling point to make them palatable, while retaining their innate flavor and texture. Fish and eggs are the most common foods that are poached, but fruit, vegetables and poultry can also be cooked using this method.
In classic French cuisine a “court bouillon” is used as the poaching liquid. Court bouillon is water simmered with vegetables, seasonings and an acid ingredient such as wine, vinegar or lemon juice. But aromatic liquids such as water with herbs or intense liquids such as red wine reductions are also good for poaching. When cooked properly, poached foods retain the delicate flavors of the food without adding fat. Here are some recipes for poached foods:

Tea-Poached Salmon with Curried Peanut Butter Broccoli Rabe
Purchase four 6-ounce salmon fillets and place them on a sheet pan. Sprinkle the contents of 2 tea bags (I used lemon tea) over the salmon and refrigerate while preparing the meal.
Heat a sauté pan and add 1 tablespoon canola oil. Add 1 cup chopped onion along with 2 tablespoons curry powder. Combine 1/4 cup creamy peanut butter with 1 cup soy milk and add to the cooked onion mixture. Cut one bunch of broccoli rabe into small pieces (both leaves and stems) and add them to the sauté pan. Toss the broccoli rabe with the peanut butter sauce, cover and simmer until just tender, about 5 minutes.
Meanwhile, spray a shallow pan with no-stick and place the tea-covered salmon fillets in the bottom. Bring 4 cups water to a boil in a separate pan and pour it gently over the salmon. Place the salmon on medium heat and bring up almost to the boiling point. Remove the salmon fillets and serve over the broccoli rabe.
If desired, mix 1 cup Greek yogurt with 1 tablespoon chopped fresh dill and 1 teaspoon lemon juice to use as a garnish on the salmon.
Serves 4.

Poached Flounder in
Red Wine Reduction with Beets
Combine 1 bottle of merlot and 1 cup chicken stock in a saucepan. Add 3 peeled and quartered beets (reserve the beet greens and stalks), 1 chopped carrot, 1 peeled and quartered onion and 1 stalk of chopped celery. Season with 3 whole cloves of garlic, 1 bay leaf and 3 sprigs of thyme. Simmer until wine is reduced by half. Strain out the vegetables and reserve the beets. Reserve the reduced wine as a poaching liquid.
Heat a sauté pan and add 1 tablespoon canola oil. When very hot, add one onion cut in long strips and cook until brown and caramelized. Add the chopped beet greens and beet stalks along with 1 tablespoon minced garlic. Add the reserved beets and season with sea salt and pepper. Moisten this mixture with 2 tablespoons of the poaching liquid and simmer for 5 minutes.
Cut 1 1/2 pounds of flounder into small fillets, cutting the large fillets down the lateral line. Season lightly with salt and pepper and roll into small paupiettes. Stick a toothpick through the rolls to hold them together. Place the flounder in a shallow pan and pour the red wine poaching liquid over them. Press a piece of foil down over the fish and bring to a simmer on the stove. Remove the flounder after about 4 minutes to avoid overcooking. Place the fish on top of the beet mixture and pour some of the poaching liquid over all.
Serves 4.

Poached Striped Bass
in Court Bouillon
Prepare a court bouillon by adding 4 cups water and 1 cup white wine to a saucepan. Tie together 1 stalk of celery, 6 parsley stems, 2 sprigs of thyme and 1 bay leaf with butcher’s twine or string. Place this bundle in the liquid with half of a peeled onion stuck with 2 whole cloves. Season with 1 teaspoon sea salt and 8 peppercorns. Simmer 30 minutes and strain.
Cut 1 1/2 pounds of boned and skinned striped bass into 4-ounce chunks and place them in a shallow pan. Pour the court bouillon over them and bring to a simmer. Cook until the fish is opaque, about 10 minutes (do not overcook). Serve over fresh green beans or sautéed fresh corn. Garnish with parsley and lemon.
Serves 4.

Poached Fresh Peaches
in Rosé Wine
In a saucepan, combine 2 cups of North Fork rosé wine with 1/4 cup sugar and 3 strips of lemon rind. Bring to a boil and stir until sugar dissolves. Add 4 peaches (leave skin on) and cook slowly until tender, turning occasionally, about 20 minutes. Remove the peaches and cool. Slip off the skin and cut into wedges. Reduce the poaching liquid to a thin syrup and pour over the peaches. Let mixture cool. If desired, add 1/2 pint of fresh blackberries before serving with vanilla ice cream.
Serves 4.

John Ross, a chef and author, has been an active part of the North Fork food and wine community for more than 35 years. Email: [email protected]

JOHN ROSS PHOTO | Flat-iron steak, right off the grill.

I surely never hope to view
A steak as luscious as a stew.
The latter is the tasty goal
Of elements in perfect whole,
A mad assemblage of legumes
Exuding warm ambrosial fumes,
Each seasoning of proper length,
Proving in Union there is strength.
A steak is grander, it is true,
Yet needs no special skill to brew.
It is an art a stew to make,
But anyone can broil a steak.
Author unknown, 1880

There was a time when we only wanted the luxury cuts of beef for our steaks — those very tender cuts from the “muscles of suspension” such as the rib, the loin, the tenderloin and part of the sirloin. The ribeye, the New York strip and the filet mignon are examples of these cuts. They all come from the center section of the animal along the backbone, an area that doesn’t get a lot of exercise. We also tended to judge the steak by its thickness and weight. Thus a 16-ounce, bone-in shell steak was a great cut of meat. And all you had to do was fire up the grill, season it with some salt and pepper and throw it on. Add a baked potato, sour cream and a tossed salad, and you had the ultimate summer meal.

But now, as we learn more about the anatomy of the steer, we find that some of the cuts in the less tender areas, known as the “muscles of locomotion,” can be very tasty and surprisingly tender. These muscles in the shoulder, legs and diaphragm do get a lot of exercise, which develops flavor in the muscles but also develops connective tissue. It just takes a little knowledge and a little work to make these cuts palatable.

We also discover that marinades, rubs and some creative sauces transform these funny-looking (and funny-sounding) cuts of beef into a gourmet meal. The amount of meat consumed is smaller and so is the price. Here are some examples to try on the barbecue:

Flat Iron Steak
People are just beginning to learn about this delicious steak. It comes from the wholesale chuck or shoulder of beef, a less tender area usually used for ground beef, stew and pot roast. But the area just under the shoulder blade, listed in the North American Meat Processors guide as the “Top Blade Steak,” is actually the second most tender cut of beef next to the filet mignon. The only problem is that it has a tough streak of connective tissue running through the middle that needs to be removed.
Removing this connective tissue and trimming it into two rectangular steaks — each resembling an old-fashioned “flat iron” — was the work of two teams of researchers at the University of Nebraska and the University of Florida. It has since become very popular among restaurateurs and is becoming available at supermarkets and meat shops. If you purchase an untrimmed top blade roast, you only need to split it in half lengthwise and remove the connective tissue with a sharp boning knife. The result will be two flat iron steaks that will weigh about one pound each and be enough to serve four people.
Preparation: Remove the line of gristle that runs through the center of a top blade roast (about 2 1/2 pounds). Cut the steaks in half to make 4 flat iron steaks. Make a simple rub by combining 2 tablespoons coarse sea salt, 1 tablespoon ground black pepper, 2 tablespoons sweet paprika, 1 teaspoon onion powder, 1 teaspoon garlic powder, 1 tablespoon dried oregano, 2 teaspoons ground cumin and 1/2 teaspoon cayenne pepper. Rub this mixture into the steak and bring the steaks to room temperature. Spray them with no-stick and place them on a hot charcoal or gas grill. Cook about 3 minutes per side, or until rare or medium rare, and remove. Let the steak rest for about 5 minutes and slice on the bias against the grain.

Hanger Steak
The wholesale cut called the plate is located under the rib section of beef. Within this cut a muscle literally “hangs” from the diaphragm. This striated muscle is called the hanger steak; it weighs about 1 1/2 pounds and is very flavorful but not quite as tender as the flat iron steak. It also contains a long inedible membrane going down the center that has to be removed. The result will be two small V-shaped muscles.
These steaks are best marinated first and then grilled over hot coals to a rare or medium-rare doneness. Cutting them against the grain is essential. I found that slow cooking hanger steak over hickory chips in a smoker grill created a delicious, easy to eat steak.
Preparation: Carefully cut a hanger steak lengthwise along the seam. You will expose the silvery connective tissue; slip a sharp boning knife under the gristle and cut away from you to remove it safely. If desired, tie the pieces together to make one thick piece of meat. This will work best if you decide to slow-cook the steak in a smoker.
Prepare a marinade by combining 1/2 cup red wine, 1/4 cup olive oil, 1 tablespoon Dijon mustard, 1 tablespoon minced garlic, 1 tablespoon minced fresh rosemary, 1 teaspoon coarse sea salt and 1 teaspoon black pepper. Place the marinade and the steak in a large zip-lock bag or a shallow pan for 2 hours or more.
For slow cooking, place charcoal in the bottom of the smoker and heat until it begins to turn white. Wrap 2 cups of hickory chips in heavy foil and poke holes in the foil. Place this package on top of the hot coals. Then place a stainless steel bowl of water on the grate above the coals and put the top grate over the water. Put the marinated steak on this grate and cover tightly with the lid. It should cook at about 250 degrees for 2 to 2 1/2 hours. The meat will still be medium-rare after this time, but it will be very tender due to the slow cooking.
Alternatively, cook the hanger steaks (separated) on a hot grill for about 10 minutes to produce a rare steak. Slice against the grain into small, thin slices.
Serves 4.

Skirt Steak
This classic steak is most famous for its use in preparing fajitas. It is located opposite the hanger steak in the diaphragm; it’s a little tougher than the hanger but a little easier to handle. It should be all trimmed and ready to cook when you purchase it.
Preparation: Make the following marinade for 1 1/2 pounds of skirt steak: Combine the juice from 3 limes with 1/4 cup tequila, 1 teaspoon ground cumin, 2 teaspoons coarse sea salt and 1 teaspoon pepper. Marinate the steaks for 2 hours in the refrigerator.
Cut a green pepper, red pepper and yellow pepper into slices and place in a bowl. Add 1 thinly sliced red onion, 1 minced jalapeno pepper, 1 tablespoon minced garlic, 1/4 cup chopped cilantro, 2 teaspoons sea salt, 1 teaspoon pepper and 2 tablespoons olive oil. Prepare a charcoal grill and wait until the coals are white. Cook the vegetable mixture in a perforated grill pan placed over the coals with the lid on top. Stir and cook until just beginning to brown, about 10 minutes.
Remove and cook the marinated steaks until browned and rare, about 5 minutes. Slice the steaks into thin pieces across the grain and serve with the cooked pepper mixture. Serve with 8-inch corn tortillas, guacamole, tomato salsa and sour cream.
Serves 4 to 6.

John Ross, a chef and author, has been an active part of the North Fork food and wine community for more than 35 years. Email: [email protected]