2024 Businessperson of the Year: Gabriella Volpe
Now in its 50th year, Caruso’s is still going strong and is still in its original location, thanks in large part to Gabriella Volpe, the second generation of Carusos to work the counter.
Ms. Volpe’s parents, Renato and Lidia Caruso, came to the U.S. in 1969 with modest ambitions: to make some money and then return to Sicily. They came with two suitcases to stay with family, work a while and then go back. Initially, they pursued tailoring, making custom suits and doing alterations — just as they had in Italy. Lidia was not thrilled with living in Riverhead, having grown up in a larger city. Riverhead was much more rural than it is now, and she was upset because they had come from a bustling city in Sicily.
The couple did the best they could for the first few years. Eventually, Renato and his brother John ended up working for another gentleman at a restaurant in the location that would become Caruso’s. According to family lore, the owner took a liking to Renato, and the brothers bought the restaurant, renaming it Caruso’s. Around the early ᾽80s, John left and Lidia took his place. For the next 20-odd years, Lidia was the cook and Renato made the pizza.
As is often the case in family businesses, Ms. Volpe ended up working for her parents at Caruso’s as soon as she could do the work, beginning at age 13. She sometimes fantasized about getting a job somewhere else, away from her family, but never acted on it. After high school, she left for college and returned to help over the summer breaks. She got her master’s and began teaching Spanish. Still, the restaurant exerted a pull on her, and she helped out when she could.
When her father fell ill, Ms. Volpe stepped in to manage Caruso’s. At the time, she was also working for the Riverhead school district to try and get back into teaching. She credits her staff for helping her during that transition.
Julio Guevara, Caruso’s current pizza man and manager, has worked for both Renato and his daughter. “It wasn’t the way it is right now,” he said. “Everything [changed] to the credit card machines, cameras, everything she did, like a 360. [I manage] the staff in the front and helping to be loyal to her over there, because it’s not easy, you know, with all these people.”
Updates like accepting credit cards and working with food delivery services have modernized the business. Ms. Volpe has also made changes to the décor to give the interior a simpler aesthetic. The mural of the boats is still in place. Next to it hang some accolades from local publications and a pizza paddle celebrating the restaurant’s 50th anniversary.
Watching Ms. Volpe move from supporting her father into running the restaurant pushed Mr. Guevara to step up his game as well. “I like the challenge. It was good,” he said. “It makes me grow, learn, because I know she’s tough, she does other stuff, so we both was learning and going forward.”
The work she began as a teen helped Ms. Volpe build deep bonds with her community. Many customers came back because they heard that Ms. Volpe had taken over. They remembered her from when she worked there as a kid. There are also new faces, and she works hard to forge new connections; she makes a point of knowing patrons’ names and what is going on in their lives.
This bond with the community is constantly on display at Caruso’s. “This is one thing. Our customers are very the best. Like, seriously, they like us. They look for her,” said Mr. Guevara. “We’re very lucky with the customers, and they’re very nice.”
Ms. Volpe also works hard to give back to the Riverhead community, sponsoring a car in both the adult and youth races at Riverhead Raceway, raising funds for the wrestling team and donating pizza to a homeless awareness campaign, the Moose Lodge, local choirs and Pizza Fridays at the school.
Ms. Volpe’s warmth is something she fosters among her employees as well. “There is nothing more pleasant that when you get somewhere and someone give you a smile. That’s what we try to remember,” said Mr. Guevara. “People come, and we make them feel welcome.”
Caruso’s hopes to open a second location in the near future to continue to spread the hospitality the restaurant has become known for. Ms. Volpe has been looking on both the North and South forks for the ideal location.
For her dedication to family and community and her tireless commitment to hospitality, the Riverhead News-Review has chosen Gabriella Volpe as its 2024 Businessperson of the Year.
Previous Winners
2023: Luis Siguencia
2022: The Suffolk
2021: John and Otto Wittmeier
2020: Jerry Dicecco Jr. and Jonathan Perkins
2019: Beth Hanlon
2018: Anthony Meras
2017: Irwin Garsten
2016: PeraBell Food Bar East
2015: Jim and Barbara Cromarty
2014: Riverhead’s craft brewers
2013: April Yakaboski
2012: Richard Stabile
2011: Dennis McDermott and Kayleigh & Tahir Baig
2010: Dee Muma
2009: J. Gordon Huszagh
2008: Ray Pickersgill
2007: Ray Maynard
2006: Jack Van de Wetering
2005: Jeff Hallock and Dr. Frank Arena
2004: Massoud Family
2003: Andrew Mitchell
2002: Christine & Peter Loew, EastEnders Coffee House
2001: Jan Burman
2000: Fred Terry
1999: Jim Bissett, Joseph Petrocelli
1998: Swezey’s Department Store
1997: Pat Frankenbach
1996: Chip Cleary
1995: Ed Merz
1994: Bill Talmage
1993: Joe Fischer
1992: Liz Strebel
1991: Barry Barth
1990: Bobby Goodale
1989: Mike Kent
1988: Stan Hagler
